Phnom Penh city guide

Phnom Penh is organised into khan (districts) and sangkat (communes), but in daily conversation people use neighbourhood shorthand. Daun Penh covers the riverfront, Royal Palace and the old French colonial quarter — the densest concentration of sights and the busiest traffic.

Boeung Keng Kang, universally called BKK1, is the main expatriate district: tree-lined streets, coffee shops, international clinics and the highest rents in the country. Toul Tom Poung, known as Russian Market, is the cheaper, more mixed alternative with a strong café and street-food scene. Chroy Changvar sits across the Japanese Bridge and has newer riverfront apartments at lower prices.

Sen Sok and Chamkar Mon hold most of the newer condominium towers and shopping malls, while Chbar Ampov and Meanchey are largely local residential areas where rents drop sharply.

Ride-hailing apps dominate. Remorks (the trailer-style tuk-tuk) and small three-wheel rickshaws are cheapest, motorbike taxis are fastest in traffic, and air-conditioned cars cost roughly double a tuk-tuk. Short trips inside the centre are normally $1.50 to $3; crossing the city runs $4 to $7.

The city bus network is inexpensive but slow and limited in coverage. Renting a motorbike is common among residents at $50 to $90 a month — bring an international or Cambodian licence, wear a helmet, and expect assertive traffic with limited lane discipline.

Phnom Penh International Airport is about 10 km west of the centre; allow an hour in peak traffic. A new larger airport southeast of the city is being phased into service, so confirm which one your flight uses.

The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda complex is the city's landmark; go early, dress with shoulders and knees covered. Next door, the National Museum holds the world's best collection of Khmer sculpture and takes about 90 minutes.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Choeung Ek killing fields document the Khmer Rouge period. They are heavy but essential to understanding modern Cambodia — most visitors pair them in one morning and plan nothing demanding afterwards.

For lighter days: Wat Phnom, the riverside promenade at sunset, Central Market's art-deco dome, and Russian Market for textiles and food. Koh Dach, the silk island, is a half-day escape 15 km upriver.

A one-bedroom serviced apartment in BKK1 runs roughly $450 to $800 a month; the same in Toul Tom Poung or Chroy Changvar is $250 to $450. Electricity is the big variable — heavy air-conditioning use can add $60 to $150 in the hot season.

US dollars circulate alongside riel, and change under a dollar comes back in riel. Card acceptance is good in malls and mid-range restaurants, and the KHQR code system covers almost everything else, but keep small notes for markets and tuk-tuks.

Tap water is not for drinking. Air quality dips noticeably in the dry season from construction dust and burning, which is worth knowing if you have respiratory issues.